Tokyo: the Giant with a Heart of Gold
This post is part of the subscriber archive of Letters from Japan, my monthly Japan travel newsletter. A free preview is available below.
Good afternoon,
We’re in full winter mode in Tokyo—not the cozy kind with snow, but the kind where air conditioners run all night, socks are required for bed, the last remaining fall leaves look more sad than vibrant, and the subway entrances seem more inviting—despite knowing I’ll be squeezed among hundreds of commuters—than the otherwise pleasurable walk to the train station, where I’m guaranteed a seat in the train after work. And I adore it.
This fall, I’ve been away from Tokyo and home for a little longer than usual. There were weekend trips to see the fall colors, followed by city breaks with very close and dear friends from Turkey—such an energizing time, experiencing Japan through their eyes. I also hiked the Kyoto Trail and had an unusually long work trip to Bohol, Philippines, a place so full of life that it completely blew my mind.
After all this time away, being back in Tokyo and waking up in my own home feels as exciting as being on a great trip. I’m also glad this isn’t a season of vibrant fall colors, heart-stirring sakura, or heart-warming snow. The blandness of nature in early December gives me a sense of calm (unlike my restless state of FOMO during the fall color season) and space to appreciate and enjoy Tokyo for what it truly is: a reliable, exceptionally well-functioning city of 23 wards, each with its unique character and an unexpectedly warm sense of community.
As a city that doesn’t interfere with your life but quietly supports it with underlying economic and social infrastructure functioning so seamlessly that you hardly notice, Tokyo offers a lot of space to focus on what matters—not necessarily literally (more on small apartments below), but definitely figuratively. It is not one of those cities (like the beloved one I’m from) where merely living demands so much energy and resources that you inevitably question whether it’s worth it. Instead, Tokyo, in my experience, prefers to remain in the background, not taking center stage unless you want it to.
So, after all these terms of endearment, you might have guessed that this final 2024 edition of Letters from Japan is more about home than travel, focusing on Tokyo—and more specifically, on the neighborhood where I live. There is also a short announcement at the end for a new travel diaries series—spoiler alert: a winter train trip through Hokkaido.
Tiny Tokyo homes
Tokyo is often labeled as one of the most expensive cities in the world, a premise I find debatable. It’s also infamous for its tiny apartments—definitely less debatable—which, judging by the number of YouTube videos, attract a lot of curiosity. So, while my apartment isn’t small enough to deserve a New York Times feature, it might still be the ideal place to start this ironically ‘domestic bliss’ focused edition of a travel newsletter before moving on to the neighborhood.
I live in a 37-square-meter apartment, which, while considered mid-size for single living in Tokyo, still feels shockingly small to many visitors not used to Japan’s compact spaces. It’s on the second floor of a three-story wooden building, with large windows that let in plenty of light—helping to keep my plants alive despite my absent parenting. It also keeps me connected to the outside world and the (often) gentle street sounds, which I happily welcome as a household of one.
More from the subscriber archive:
Hiking Kumano Kodo: the Nakahechi Route
Hiking Japan: From Okinawa to Hokkaido
Shibu Onsen and the Snow Monkeys of Nagano
Tohoku Onsen Hopping: Four Nights, Four Hot Springs
Tokyo Eateries: the Non-Gourmet Version
Autumn Colors Trip to Aomori: Itinerary Suggestion
Cycling the Shimanami Kaido in Two Days
Japan Trip Planning Q&A Series (three posts)
Winter Trip to Biei in Hokkaido (four posts)
Walking the Goto Islands (eight posts)
For more Japan travel stories and resources, Letters from Japan includes a new monthly letter as well as a growing paid archive of travel diaries, walking itineraries, and trip-planning resources. Paid subscriptions are USD 5/month or USD 50/year (which includes a one-to-one trip-planning session). Explore the full archive here or subscribe below.
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