Snow Falling on Cedars: Winter in Japan
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Good afternoon,
This is likely the twentieth sunny day in a row in Tokyo, making this winter one of the most delightful yet, despite the bitter cold and disorienting wind. Plum blossoms have already arrived, reminding me to mention not just November, but also February as one of the best months to visit Japan. Fewer crowds, much more reasonable accommodation rates, and blossoms as vibrant as Sakura, if you don’t mind a bit of cold.
While snow is a rare event in Tokyo (Kyoto seems much luckier in that regard), February is also, for Honshu, the most reliable month for snowfall, a trustworthy companion that elevates the charm of not only nature but also urban landscapes – especially in the evening, when paired with Japan’s captivating night lights.
And over the past few months, aside from a brief work trip to Laos, which was as lovely as ever and even more festive this time with street celebrations for the Chinese New Year, and being mentally transported into Thailand’s addictive aura through the third season of The White Lotus, my travels mainly focused on chasing the snow, taking me through Japan’s snow-covered forests, some dominated by cedars, the country’s national tree, giving me an excuse to borrow the title of this post from the sad but gorgeously shot 1999 film, Snow Falling on Cedars.
First came a week-long trip to the heart of Hokkaido in late December, where I experienced snow and ice in almost every possible form—frozen waterfalls, sparkly decorations on bare trees, blanketing endless farmlands, and even, with the help of an active volcano, creating enigmatically hellish white landscapes.
Then, in February, during a delightful ten-day visit from my mother, we spent four days along Japan’s New Golden Route (promoted as an alternative to the original Golden Route covering Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto), visiting Kanazawa, Shirakawa-go, and Takayama, where the snow seemed more abundant than even in Hokkaido (probably not, but it certainly felt like it).
While planning (relevant post: Japan Travel FAQ) my mother’s visit, I aimed to balance relaxing time in Tokyo with a side trip to a less mainstream city (since she had already visited Osaka and Kyoto), as well as a nature-focused ryokan and onsen experience, ideally in a snowy region, unique to Japan.
After considering several options, including many in Hokkaido and Tohoku, the trio of Kanazawa, Shirakawa-go, and Takayama, all within close proximity of each other, emerged as the most reliable choice.
Kanazawa, one of Japan’s most elegant cities, less than a 2.5-hour Shinkansen ride from Tokyo, would check the box for a slightly off-the-mainstream city. Shirakawa-go, a picturesque mountain village nestled in the Japanese Alps, would add a touch of nature, while Takayama would deliver the classic ryokan and onsen experience. And all three, already blanketed in snow that grew thicker by the day with continuous snowfall, certainly did not disappoint.
Honestly, with Japan’s mountainous terrain, it’s hard to find a destination north of Tokyo that disappoints in winter—especially if you’re after snowy landscapes, relaxed indoor time (onsen helps), and atmospheric dining.
These praising words—quite big coming from someone who once, without hesitation or regret, titled a monthly letter The Very Questionable Beauty of Japan, bring us to this month’s topic. While Kanazawa ended up being the winner in our case, this letter isn’t just about Kanazawa, but also the other alternatives I considered while planning the perfect three-day cozy winter trip with my mother—one that blends slightly lesser-known city escapes that don’t feel too obscure with uniquely Japanese nature experiences.
Winter trip suggestions for Japan
Kanazawa, Shirakawa-go, and Takayama
Kanazawa is, in my view and that of many others, one of Japan’s most rewarding city breaks for both visitors and locals, especially if you’ve already explored the usual destinations like Tokyo and Kyoto. Often referred to, somewhat reductively, as Little Kyoto due to its geisha district reminiscent of Gion, the city offers a surprising number of attractions for its modest size.
Home to Kenroku-en—officially recognized as one of Japan’s three most beautiful gardens—the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, featuring works by James Turrell and Anish Kapoor in its permanent collection, the well-preserved geisha district of Higashi Chaya, an architecturally impressive museum dedicated to Kanazawa-born Buddhist philosopher D.T. Suzuki, historic samurai houses, a vibrant fish market, and highly praised kaiseki cuisine, Kanazawa once again convinced me that it can do no wrong (here is a more recent diary style post about Kanazawa: One Fine Day in Kanazawa).
I first visited Kanazawa in autumn, and it was, both with the autumn colors and abundance of sights, so unexpectedly rewarding that a planned three-night stay turned into ten. This recent trip, however, showed me that the city is just as wonderful in winter. Its compact size makes for a relaxed visit, offering enough sights to fill a three-day trip while still leaving plenty of time—and excellent options—for wining and dining. My favorite this time was a set dinner at Il Mare, serving a fusion of Italian and Japanese cuisine in a counter-style setting with an impossibly cozy atmosphere, made even better by the large windows and the constant snowfall outside.
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Letters from Japan:
More from the subscriber archive:
Hiking Kumano Kodo: the Nakahechi Route
Hiking Japan: From Okinawa to Hokkaido
Shibu Onsen and the Snow Monkeys of Nagano
Tohoku Onsen Hopping: Four Nights, Four Hot Springs
Tokyo Eateries: the Non-Gourmet Version
Autumn Colors Trip to Aomori: Itinerary Suggestion
Cycling the Shimanami Kaido in Two Days
Japan Trip Planning Q&A Series (three posts)
Winter Trip to Biei in Hokkaido (four posts)
Walking the Goto Islands (eight posts)
For more destinations in Japan:
For more destination ideas in Japan, the “Where to Visit in Japan” post focuses on destinations that you can easily add to a trip focused on Tokyo and/or Kyoto. Another post with planning suggestions is the Japan Travel Frequently Asked Questions section.
Getting off the mainland to visit the smaller islands is another wonderful option to experience the “extremely” rural life centered around the ocean. These are some of my favorite islands in Japan. Another island-related post covers my favorite Okinawa island, Tokashiki.
Summer may not be the best time to visit Japan, of course, unless you are planning to head up to the mountains or islands. These are some of my favorite summer destinations in Japan.
If you like hiking, you are in luck. Mountains cover 70% of Japan’s land and host thousands of trails suitable for both beginner and advanced hikers; these are some of the hikes in Japan that are easily accessible by public transportation. There is also a separate post about the multi-day pilgrimage routes of Japan.
If you have time to visit the northern frontier of Japan —Hokkaido —here are some winter suggestions: a week in Biei. For summer, suggest Rebun Island.
To experience Japan’s famous onsen (hot springs) culture, check out my post listing some of my favorite onsen.
If you visit Japan during the fall colors season, these are some of my favorite fall foliage viewing destinations in the country.
