Going South: Islands of Kyushu
I didn’t keep a count, but Kyushu might be the main island of Japan I visited most, other than Honshu, of course, which covers a significant chunk of Japan and is where I live.
With its hiking trails, lively cities, historical sites, onsen towns, and islands, Kyushu offers countless sights and more than enough reasons to keep coming back. While I originally planned to cover all my favorite Kyushu destinations in this month’s letter, that quickly proved to be a not-so-good idea—it would turn this post into an even more painfully long one than it already is. So instead—honoring the fact that my first visit to Kyushu wasn’t to its mainland but to one of its islands—this month’s letter is dedicated to three islands off Kyushu’s coast: one rightfully known as Japan’s hiking heaven, another as the ‘island of prayers,’ and the third, honestly, not known for much at all, which is part of its charm.
Wishing for a rainy day—Yakushima
My first encounter with Kyushu dates back to 2018, before I moved to Japan, when I visited Yakushima—a heart-shaped island surrounded by a 100-kilometer-long ring road, located 60 kilometers off the coast of Kagoshima, the southernmost prefecture in Kyushu.
It wasn’t a love-at-first-sight kind of story, but one that began with a naively unexpected feeling of disappointment—the sight of concrete and oddly painted buildings lining the coast of Miyanoura, the island’s largest town. Little did I know then that such scenery is typical of rural Japan, where beauty doesn’t always come easily or picture-perfectly — sweeping you off your feet at first sight — unless you deliberately look for it and, in most cases, work for it.
Luckily, in the case of Yakushima, the effort required was relatively minor: a short drive out of town and up to the higher elevations, followed by a mildly demanding hike to discover that awe-striking beauty, which was reportedly the inspiration for Hayao Miyazaki’s Princess Mononoke — and the ecological uniqueness, which earned Yakushima the honor of becoming Japan’s first UNESCO Natural Heritage Site in 1993.
I have since visited Yakushima two more times, each for an extended stay. While I would recommend Okinawa for swimming (though Yakushima has beaches, they don’t quite compare to Okinawa’s), when it comes to hiking, not much can beat Yakushima — with 90% of its land covered by forest. Despite spending months on the island, I barely scratched the surface of its hundreds of hiking trails.
Thanks to sites and hikes like the Moss Forest in Shiratani Unsukyo—reportedly the exact location that inspired Miyazaki—Miyanoura Dake, the highest peak in Kyushu, and the Jomon Sugi, Japan’s oldest tree, estimated to be between 2,000 and 7,200 years old, Yakushima is certainly not desperate for visitors. In a country where travel decisions are often guided by landmark lists, the 10-hour Jomon Sugi trek, in particular, feels like a pilgrimage for Japanese visitors, who, I believe, can receive a completion certificate at the end of the trail.
As a stand-alone hike, the Jomon Sugi trek isn’t my favorite on the island, though the giant cedar tree is truly impressive. If you have the time, a two-day trek called the island traverse (though not as intimidating, challenging, or technical as it sounds) that also covers the Jomon Sugi is a great way to explore some of Yakushima’s most spectacular scenery.
The traverse route, which typically starts at the Yodagawa Trailhead (though there are other options), begins with a hike up to Miyanoura Dake. It includes an overnight stay at one of the mountain huts, followed by a descent to Jomon Sugi through one of the most intriguing, spookily beautiful, and memorable forest sections I’ve experienced. The trail offers a constantly shifting landscape, with ancient forests, intriguing rock formations like the affectionately named tofu rock, and monoliths that evoke Game of Thrones landscapes. This all takes place in the company of exceptionally shy yakushika—Yakushima deer—and far less shy island monkeys. It’s a hike I’ve done only once, but I would love to repeat it someday.
Marked as Japan’s wettest place—hence the saying “it rains 35 days a month in Yakushima”—4 you’re likely to encounter rain at least part of the way during your hike in Yakushima—and if you don’t, too bad. While it presents its own challenges, rain is something to wish for, as it truly elevates the experience—bringing out the vibrant green, making the moss shine, and allowing you to feel the power of an ancient forest deep in your bones.
While I didn’t fully appreciate it enough during my first visit, as I had very little experience with rural Japan and how desolate it could feel, another essential aspect of Yakushima that makes it special is the range of additional opportunities it offers to complement the hiking experience and help you enjoy the island.
More from the subscriber archive:
Hiking Kumano Kodo: the Nakahechi Route
Hiking Japan: From Okinawa to Hokkaido
Shibu Onsen and the Snow Monkeys of Nagano
Tohoku Onsen Hopping: Four Nights, Four Hot Springs
Tokyo Eateries: the Non-Gourmet Version
Autumn Colors Trip to Aomori: Itinerary Suggestion
Cycling the Shimanami Kaido in Two Days
Japan Trip Planning Q&A Series (three posts)
Winter Trip to Biei in Hokkaido (four posts)
Walking the Goto Islands (eight posts)
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