Nikko: the Same Trees, Same Colors but Different Leaves
I will get this out of the way right away. I would happily give up sakura season for an extended fall in Japan in any given year.
Do not get me wrong. I love the sakura season and witnessing the excitement of locals during the season, families enjoying the season in one of the many beautiful parks of Tokyo, and possibly dad and mom taking off a day from work, packing a picnic basket with enough food for the whole day, and bikes parked nearby. It is a lovely yet fleeting season.
However, nothing compares to the fall foliage – koyo (紅葉) – season for me (well, maybe winter does as discussed in this “When to Visit Japan?” post). I structure my entire year around it. I try to get as much work as possible done during the painfully hot and humid summer months of August and September to have some buffer during the fall season, which usually starts in the Kanto region towards the end of October (the season begins as early as mid-September in Hokkaido). I often start my fall foliage viewing trips in mid-October in Oku-Nikko in Tochigi Prefecture. In November, I try to visit the Tohoku region, which offers one of the country’s most secluded autumn color viewing experiences.
My first fall outing this year was again to Oku-Nikko, which is the region that starts at Lake Chuzenji Area, about an hour bus ride from Nikko town, and goes all the way up to Yumoto Onsen. Some of the most impressive waterfalls of Japan, including Kegon, Ryuzu, and Yudaki, are also part of the Oku-Nikko Area in addition to two marshlands, Senjogahara and Odashirogahara.
If you are looking for fall color destinations near Tokyo or an early start to the season, here’s a quick guide on getting to Oku-Nikko, along with some useful links for fall color forecasts, followed by my notes on why I revisit Oku-Nikko each year during the fall colors season.
How to get to Nikko from Tokyo and available passes
The Nikko All Area Pass offered by Tobu Railways is excellent for travelers departing from Tokyo (Asakusa). The pass is available to all non-Japanese passport holders, including residents of Japan. The pass covers the round-trip local train pass (you need to pay an extra 1400 Yen or more, depending on the hour, if you want to take a limited express train connecting Asakusa to Nikko in under 2 hours), and all the bus rides in Nikko, in addition to the Lake Chuzenji cruise. The pass covers four days of travel in the area and costs 8,000 Japanese Yen.
If you are planning a day or weekend trip, you may also consider buying train tickets separately and topping them up with the two-day Tobu Bus pass, which covers the entire route up to the Yumoto Onsen area. The bus pass costs 3,600 Japanese Yen.
I usually take the first express train out of Asakusa, departing at 6:30 a.m., which takes me to Nikko town in less than two hours. While Nikko can be easily done as a day trip from Tokyo (as I had done this time around), it is a lovely and quiet place to spend the night.
Where to stay in Nikko
If you are traveling to Nikko in October to see the fall colors, I highly recommend staying in the Lake Chuzenji area, which is closer to Oku-Nikko, rather than central Nikko. The fall colors in central Nikko do not appear until November, whereas the Oku-Nikko region starts changing color in the first weeks of October. Basing yourself in Chuzenji will also allow you to avoid the crowded bus ride from the Tobu and JR Nikko train stations. I usually stay at Little Forest in Nikko, a simple yet lovely guesthouse.
Fall in Japan – forecasting resources
Always reliable and helpful, Japan Guide offers periodical field reports covering the country’s most famous fall foliage spots.
Kishou’s website, on the other hand, focuses on annual Koyo forecasts and covers the entire country. You can search by prefecture and famous spots. The Weather News Japan website is also often recommended for forecasting purposes. I usually check all three websites to plan my fall outings. Tenki, the Japanese weather forecast site, also has a special koyo section.
Fall colors viewing outing to Nikko
I spend two to three days in the Oku-Nikko and Lake Yunoko area in Tochigi Prefecture in mid-October every year when the fall colors are usually at their peak. I find great joy but, more importantly, comfort in seasonal repeat travels/hikes.
I hike the same trails each year. There are always new things and sights that catch my attention, but I also enjoy the comfort of hiking in familiar surroundings. Even before the hike, I can picture every step and each awe-inspiring sight that lies ahead of me.
With a start at the Ryuzu Falls, twenty minutes into the hike, a tree trunk hosting a bush with red leaves will greet me. They will be guarded by two large trees, one featuring yellow leaves and the other still hanging on to the green leaves of the summer. This scenery will put the first big smile of the hike on my face, the joy of seeing the familiar “faces” and confirming that they are still in good shape. I will soon reach the first intersection, where the trail sign will inform me of several route options. After a brief (and honestly unnecessary) pause, I will, each year, decide to walk toward Odashirogahara Marshland and save Aka-Numa for the return hike.
I will soon arrive at my favorite section of the trail, the section with hundreds of maple trees on both sides. By this time of year, the maple leaves will already be yellow and shine like gold on a sunny day. I will spend at least ten minutes photographing the golden forest (which I, very uncreatively, named as such) and regretfully think of my tripod sitting at home (knowing all too well that I will have the same regret next year).
Within five minutes, I will arrive at a section where the trail will require a very short descent, and on the right side, there will be a tiny hill. Right before the hill, I will (a little anxiously) look up to confirm the well-being of the large tree branches, each featuring different leaf colors, red, yellow, and green, joining each other and forming a bridge. Against the backdrop of a forest where green is still the dominating color, the colorful scenery created with the collective efforts of a handful of tree branches will always feel like an oasis.
About an hour later, the sight of a giant cedar tree will be my cue for the trail’s end. The beautiful cedar will look its best on a rainy day when the moss covering its roots will feature shinier tone of green.
After a lengthy break by my favorite tree, I will soon reach the tiny beach by Lake Yunoko. I will salute the picnickers and the photographers (and their tripods) who often park there for long hours enjoying the reflection of the autumn colors on the blue lake.
I love Oku-Nikko. And I love the autumn season.
Where else to visit in Japan for the fall colors?
Here is a list of some other autumn foliage-related posts from the blog:
Best Places to Experience Fall Colors in Japan
Blue Forests of Japan: Autumn Colors Trip to Aomori
Fall Colors in Aomori: Lake Towada and Oirase Stream
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