Tohoku: One of Japan`s Least Explored Yet Most Rewarding Regions
For some strange reason, I kept postponing a trip to the Tohoku region in northern Japan for a long time. I had heard about its striking landscapes, its prefectures named after forests, and its slower pace of life, yet I preferred to hold onto the idea of it rather than experience it firsthand.
That changed one autumn morning when I boarded a Shinkansen to Aomori, the northernmost city of Tohoku, for a week-long fall colors-focused trip, which quickly turned into an annual habit, taking me up to the region every October.
Over the past five years, I have traveled through Tohoku extensively, returning for winter scenery, for onsen-hopping trips exploring the region’s famous historical inns, and, most regularly, for its autumn colors.
So whenever someone asks me where they should visit in Japan other than Tokyo and Kyoto, Tohoku is always among the top places that I recommend.
The region, spread over seven prefectures, has something to please everyone. It is also one of the most convenient regions of Japan to visit by train if you are departing from Tokyo. Its northernmost city, Aomori, is only 3.5 hours by Shinkansen, whereas Fukushima Prefecture is less than 2 hours away. The JR East Pass, which allows for five consecutive days of unlimited travel on all JR lines in the region, including the Tohoku Shinkansen, is a great deal priced at 35,000 Japanese Yen (replacing the JR East Tohoku Pass in March 2026).
Should you decide to visit Tohoku during your trip to Japan, here are some of my favorite sites and destinations in the region. For a more detailed, itinerary-focused post covering Aomori Prefecture during the fall colors, there is also a post in my monthly newsletter for paid subscribers: Blue Forests of Japan: Autumn Trip to Aomori, and another one covering a five-day onsen hopping trip through Tohoku during which I stayed in four different hot spring inns.
Chuson-ji Temple in Iwate: the underrated UNESCO treasure
I have to confess. I am unsure if I would find my way to Chuson-ji Temple, located in Iwate Prefecture, if it were not included in the itinerary of a travel writing assignment. But I am glad that I did.
I visited Chuson-ji on a very snowy winter day, where an alley lined with giant trees covered in snow led the way and made me jump with excitement. The temple was registered as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2011, along with selected sites in Hiraizumi. The complex, originally established in 850 as a temple for the Tendai sect of Buddhism, was expanded in the 12th century by the Fujiwara Clan, the ruling clan during Japan’s Heian Period (794-1185). The complex, which once housed dozens of temples and buildings, is still impressively large. It reminded me of Koyasan, located in Wakayama, which is also partially registered as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The pièce de résistance of Chuson-ji is the Konjikido Hall, a mesmerizingly beautiful structure covered in gold, which houses the mummified remains of the leaders of the Fujiwara Clan. The alluring beauty of Konjikido is often compared to that of the Golden Pavilion, Kinkaku-ji, in Kyoto.
Hirosaki City: excellent museum, one of the original castles of Japan, and a great dining scene
While Tohoku is renowned for its natural wonders, the region is also home to some of Japan’s finest mid-sized cities. Hirosaki, located in Aomori Prefecture, is one of the most rewarding mid-size towns that I have visited in Japan (also featured in my recent “Where to Visit in Japan in 2026” post, introducing five of my favorite destinations). I would put it in the same league as Matsumoto in Nagano. Both cities are excellent examples of places in Japan where modern-day life perfectly blends with and complements their historical roots.
During the Meiji Restoration in 1868, Hirosaki was among the towns that welcomed many Westerners for cultural exchange to accelerate Japan’s integration into the rest of the world after a period of national seclusion. This period of exchange eventually led to numerous Western-style buildings in the city and the opening of many restaurants serving European cuisine, mainly French.
In addition to its overall relaxing vibe, the city also has two main attractions. Hirosaki is home to one of the last remaining original castles in Japan. Hirosaki Castle, surrounded by a large, gorgeous park, is particularly striking during the autumn foliage season.
Then there is the Museum of Contemporary Art, occupying an old, stylish brick building that used to be a brewery during the Meiji Period. The museum launches two temporary exhibitions per year to feature artists who highlight the culture of Hirosaki and Tohoku. On the premises, there is a library, studio space, and a cafe where they offer delicious lunch sets.
From the paid archive: A diary of a four-day trip using the Japan East Rail Pass exploring foliage spots in Aomori Prefecture of Tohoku including Hirosaki – Blue Forests of Japan: Autumn Trip to Aomori.
Yamadera Temple: the name of the rose
Apologies for misleading you with my title. Of course, Umberto Eco’s novel depicts a monastery tucked deep in the mountains of Italy, not Japan, but if someone were to remake the movie, Yamadera Temple, literally meaning “mountain temple” in Japanese, hidden in the mountains of Yamagata Prefecture, would make the perfect filming location.
The temple was visited by the famous Japanese poet Matsuo Basho in the 17th century, an experience that inspired him to write one of his haikus dedicated to the area’s stillness.
The hike up to the temple requires you to negotiate 1000 steps, but the scenery along the route is beautiful enough to distract you from your woes. Once you reach the top, the main reward is the Godaido Hall, which offers magnificent views of the surrounding area.
While most people only visit the Yamadera, if you walk a little further down the main street (without the detour to the steps leading to the main temple), you will be greeted by a modest temple marking the trailhead for the “Hidden Yamadera”, which is reportedly the original location of the temple. The hike requires a relatively easy 30-minute climb through a beautiful forest. The Hidden Yamadera has a very different feel from the main temple, with unique rock formations (reminding me of Cappadocia in my home country) and a torii gate dominating the scene.
Oirase Stream and Lake Towada: true hidden gem
Oirase Stream and Lake Towada, located in Aomori Prefecture, are two popular, neighboring destinations for local travelers, but both remain relatively unknown to international visitors. Oirase Stream, with an 8-kilometer hiking trail, is one of the prime spots for viewing fall colors not only in Tohoku but across all of Japan. Lake Towada town (different from Towada town, which is inland), on the other hand, is a tiny, cozy town located right on Lake Towada.
Home to traditional Japanese-style eateries and modern cafes, Towada is a very pleasant town to visit for a few days. There is a shrine that you can hike up to, along with a walking trail next to the lake. I highly recommend that you stop by Marine Blue, a cozy cabin-style cafe, again sitting right by the lake, offering simple breakfast and delicious apple pies. Towada’s proximity to the beautiful Oirase Stream also makes it a perfect base for a fall foliage-viewing trip.
Aoni Onsen in Aomori: my favorite onsen in Japan
I could not help but list Aoni Onsen. After all, I have been gushing about it everywhere. Located near Kuroishi town, Aoni Onsen is an independent facility, not part of any larger onsen town. And I think this is what makes a stay in Aoni truly exceptional.
Oh, and there is no electricity, phone, or Wi-Fi connection in the onsen, and the entire facility is lit with oil lamps. This is one of the most atmospheric onsen experiences that you can have in Japan, if not the most.
From the paid archive: My four-night Tohoku onsen-hopping diary follows an autumn trip through four different hot springs, including Nyuto Onsen – Onsen Hopping Through Tohoku – four nights, four hot springs.
Kakunodate, one of the best-preserved Samurai towns
Kakunodate is a unique town that has remained relatively unchanged since its establishment in 1620 during the Edo period (1603-1867). I have been fortunate to visit the area multiple times for personal and business trips. While I think it is at its best in winter, when snow enhances the novel-like, historical atmosphere of all the wooden buildings, Kakunodate is also very popular during the fall foliage viewing season in October.
The town, located in Akita Prefecture, is home to several samurai homes open to visitors, family-run traditional soy sauce breweries, and both traditional and quirky restaurants. Served by the Shinkansen, Kakunodate is a wonderful choice for those who want to experience what life might have been like during the Samurai era.
Kakunodate also makes a perfect base to visit many other rewarding sites that Akita has to offer, including Nyuto Onsen village and Lake Tazawako.
These are only five sites/destinations that I love and repeatedly visit in Tohoku. But the region is home to countless other sites and deserves at least one full week. Thanks to the extensive Shinkansen and local train network, the main destinations and even some of the smaller towns are easily accessible, making it a relatively convenient region to explore even for carless solo travelers.
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If you are not short on time, there are countless other destinations in Japan. Getting off the mainland to visit the smaller islands is a wonderful option to experience the “extremely” rural life centered around the ocean. These are some of my favorite islands in Japan.
If you like hiking, you are in luck. Mountains cover 70% of Japan’s land and host thousands of trails fit for both beginner and advanced hikers. These are some of the hikes in Japan easily accessible with public transportation.
To experience the famous onsen (hot springs) culture of Japan, you can check out my post where I listed some of my favorite onsen in Japan.
If you visit Japan during the fall colors season, these are some of my favorite fall foliage viewing destinations in the country.
