Tokyo Museums: Your Best Friend on a Rainy Day

Tokyo, while possibly a little bit intimidating on paper, with a population of 15 million and 23 wards, each feeling like its own city, is honestly one of the friendliest metropolises that I have ever experienced. When you live here, the city soon starts to feel like one giant but an exceptionally cozy town. It feels strangely rural, down to earth, and surprisingly manageable (more about this in my love letter to the city – Tokyo: the Giant with a Big Heart).

But I know this is far from the impression that the city leaves on first-time visitors, who may feel lost trying to navigate the underground maze connecting 180 stations. They might also understandably feel a bit disoriented if they find themselves in Shinjuku, the neon capital of the world, where towering loudspeakers are everywhere. That was definitely how I felt when I first visited Tokyo many years ago, wishing I could escape and reunite with my beloved Kyoto. So whenever someone asks me for Tokyo-related advice, I often suggest that they have a set itinerary for the first few days that they will be in the city until they get used to the city’s rhythm. Having a structured itinerary for the first few days can help you avoid feeling disorientated and overwhelmed in a city with thousands of options and an extensive subway line to navigate through.

This is where the hundreds of museums in Tokyo can come in handy, offering a good starting base for your first few days in the city. Of course, the museums are usually also not only visitors but also residents’ best friends on rainy days, which are unfortunately not very rare in Tokyo. While there’s a museum in Tokyo for every taste and area of interest, here are some of my favorites.

Tokyo Photographic Art Museum in Meguro

Located in ever-trendy Meguro, the Tokyo Photographic Art Museum is Tokyo`s answer to Maison Européenne de la Photographie in Paris. Occupying a large building entirely dedicated to the art of photography, the Museum hosts rotating exhibitions in addition to its permanent collection, which includes many Japanese and international artists, including Walker Evans and Robert Capa.

The museum and the adjacent library, dedicated to the art of photography, are open every day except Mondays. A lovely cafe on the premises offers sweets and simple curry lunches.

I often combine a visit to the Tokyo Photographic Art Museum with a lunch at one of the wonderful bistro/restaurants lining the Meguro River.

The access info for Tokyo Photographic Art Museum: https://maps.app.goo.gl/6srPtqV4UCQrzMRW9

Mori Art Museum in Roppongi

You can always count on the Mori Art Museum in Roppongi for big names and popular shows. The museum currently hosts a show displaying various artworks from the late French/American artist Louise Bourgeois. Another relatively recent big-name exhibit was a solo show of the late American artist Jean-Michel Basquiat`s works right before the pandemic in 2019.

Depending on the exhibition, it’s advisable to purchase your ticket online. I’ve found that the largest crowds I’ve encountered for a show in Japan are often at Mori Art Museum. When buying your ticket, you’ll need to select the exact time of your visit. If you plan to enter earlier, be aware that the automated machine only allows entry 15 minutes before your designated time, so you may need to adjust your ticket accordingly.

If you have time, you can also check out the nearby Nezu Museum for a very different aura—including a beautiful Japanese Garden—and art as in pre-historic Asian and Japanese art.

The access info for Mori Art Museum: https://maps.app.goo.gl/25oa9doaWEPXbS6C7

Yayoi Kusama Museum in Waseda

One of Japan`s most famous contemporary artists, if not the most, Yayoi Kusama, draws big crowds globally. This museum, which is entirely dedicated to Kusama`s work, is no exception and requires advance reservations and a designated time slot. The museum opens only for a limited period each month, and you can check the schedule and book your ticket here.

The access info for Yayoi Kusama Museum in Tokyo:https://maps.app.goo.gl/N2bYgPGLhWA8U9b48

If you are a devoted Yayoi Kusama fan (her background really puts her artwork in a very meaningful concept), you may also consider a pilgrimage to Matsumoto, the artist’s hometown. While it is a three-hour trip from Tokyo, you are often guaranteed fewer crowds when viewing her work at the Matsumoto City Museum of Art.

Tokyo Museum of Contemporary Art in Sumida

I recently saw a David Hockney retrospective at this well-designed museum located in the Eastern part of Tokyo.

They currently exhibit the private collection of Takahashi Ryutaro until November 10th, 2025, which includes many well-known Japanese artists, including Yayoi Kusama and Takashi Murakami. Here is the link to online ticket purchasing: https://www.e-tix.jp/mot/en/

The access info for the Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo: https://maps.app.goo.gl/zXVsjSo42xXon76t6

Enoura Observatory by Hiroshi Sugimoto in Odawara

Are you familiar with the work of Japanese photographer and architect Hiroshi Sugimoto? If so, and if you appreciate his art, you’ll definitely enjoy Enoura Observatory, located one hour outside of Tokyo in Odawara. One reviewer pointed out that visiting the observatory feels like stepping into one of Sugimoto’s photographs. The way light interacts with the architecture creates a sense of blurred boundaries, transporting you to another dimension.

Enoura Observatory is the culmination of a decade of effort by Hiroshi Sugimoto, who spent years searching for the perfect location for his vision. In an interview, Sugimoto explained that his goal was to let visitors experience nature as our ancestors once did—free from the distractions of modern life—and to offer a brief opportunity to step into their world. You can read more about Enoura Observatory in this post I wrote a few years ago after a spring visit to the observatory: Enoura Observatory by Hiroshi Sugimoto.

The access info for Enoura Observatory: Odawara Art Foundation

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