Tokashiki and Zamami islands, located off the coast of Naha (the largest city on mainland Okinawa), are my two favorite summer destinations in Japan. The islands offer some of the best swimming grounds I’ve ever experienced, but little else in terms of entertainment or dining, just a few simple options, making them an ideal destination for a very laid-back summer escape.
My first encounter with the Tokashiki and Zamami Islands dates back to September 2018. I was traveling in Southeast Asia (soon after I left my full-time job) with no definite plans and was about to run out of time on my visa in Thailand. I found a cheap air ticket to Naha, Okinawa, from Bangkok (an overnight flight for USD 150 with the Japanese low-cost airline Peach Air) and decided to make the island my entry point to Japan for a three-month trip.
Although I was not aware of it at the time, September is still typhoon season in Japan, and ferry and flight cancellations are common occurrences. If I had not had three months in the country, Okinawa would have been a risky choice. If your schedule is not as flexible and you already have an international ticket out of Japan, please note that August and September visits to Okinawa may be stressful due to the high risk of transportation cancellations.
The two most popular Kerama Islands: Tokashiki and Zamami
The Kerama group comprises Tokashiki, Zamami, Aka, and Geruma, the four inhabited islands, as well as a dozen other uninhabited islands scattered between them.
The most popular ones are Tokashiki and Zamami, with a slightly richer array of accommodation and dining options. While I had once stayed overnight on Zamami due to a route change triggered by a typhoon, I usually stay on Tokashiki and occasionally add a day trip to Zamami to enjoy its beautiful kayaking coves.
Below are some quick notes for both islands, and for a little more impression-focused post on these two islands that I now visit every year with a little bit of historical context – you can refer to – Okinawa, the Reluctant Paradise post.
Brief notes about Zamami Island
There is one hostel on Zamami Island: Zamami International Guesthouse. Although I once stayed there, it is not one that I would love to return to. It just did not feel as well-maintained as most other hostels in Japan.
Fortunately, there are other options on the island, including a few Japanese-style guesthouses (minshuku) and a campground located right by a beautiful beach – Ama Beach, which is highly popular among stand-up paddle (SUP) enthusiasts.
Zamami, despite its very modest size, also boasts a good range of eateries, including food-cart-style ones that pop up near the beach just before sunset. Little Kitchen is a good choice thanks to the quality of the food (though it is a windowless indoor setup, which does not evoke a dining-on-an-island feeling), whereas the more recent Gypsy Court is ideal for a quick taco lunch, though the music is a little too loud for my taste.
Furuzamami Beach and Ama Beach are the two main beaches on the island, which you can easily walk to from the ferry terminal.
Tokashiki Island: arguably the best swimming waters in the world
When in Tokashiki, I almost exclusively visit Tokashiku Beach, which is about a 40-minute walk from the area where I stay, Tokashiki Village, home to the main ferry port and the island’s administrative center. Many of the accommodations offer shuttle service to the beach, including the more popular Aharen, if you would like to avoid the short but challenging climb under the sun, but the public bus does not serve this beach.
Tokashiku Beach is usually very quiet, especially early in the morning. You are almost guaranteed to swim alone (with the occasional company of a rainbow) if you visit the beach right after sunrise. The eating options here are considerably more limited than at Aharen Beach, the more popular main beach on the island. However, the food cart, Bon Voyage, operated by Mai-san, which is open from 12 p.m. to 4 p.m. every day except Mondays (and occasionally on other days, depending on her schedule and weather), is a real treat. Her Cuban sandwiches are filling and very tasty.
While I prefer Tokashiku, Aharen Beach is the more popular beach on the island, surrounded by numerous low-key eateries and sports centers that offer a variety of water activities. You can do banana rides or kayak to the nearby uninhabited islands for snorkeling. The beach inevitably feels a little too crowded and lacks the secluded, cove-like feeling of Tokashiku Beach. The viewpoint at the end of Aharen Beach is worth checking out, though.
Tokashiki Island: dining options
Since I always stay on the Tokashiki Port side, my dining options are more limited than those at Aharen Beach. During my first visit to the island, I ate at a nameless outdoor yakitori place almost every night. The yakitori joint had everything you would wish out of island life: the same locals visiting the place every night, bar-like seating, yakitori sticks at 100 Yen each, and cheap beer (in addition to local Okinawan drink awamori, which is too strong for my taste). While the owner still lives on the island, the yakitori shop has unfortunately remained closed during most recent summers—but it might still be worth asking around, as it could reopen at any time.
On more recent visits, I usually eat at Kanaloa’s own restaurant, since I stay at their hotel. The food is exceptionally good, though the atmosphere falls short of what you might expect from an island evening dining spot. The lights are a little too bright, and there is no outdoor option (though the mosquitoes justify this choice).
My favorite daytime hangout in Tokashiki for breakfast or lunch is Sunny Coral, a café that serves delicious sandwiches. The owner, who is heavily involved in community work, is also very friendly.
Where to stay on Tokashiki Island
On Tokashiki, I used to stay at Kerama Backpackers Hostel, which is not a modern one but has fairly well-maintained facilities (though the owner can be a little moody). They also offer free shuttle service to the beaches. You can get a dorm bed for around 2500 Yen a night. They have a decent-sized kitchen if you want to cook your own (there is a relatively well-stocked grocery store (as far as island grocery stores go) near the hostel.
Another more recent accommodation option that I now prefer is the Hotel Kanaloa, located near the Tokashiki ferry port, where you can get a single room for around 15,000 yen per night. The hotel also features a restaurant, serving delicious food in a setting that, unfortunately, is not as atmospheric as one would expect from an island eatery.
Kerama Islands hikes
Tokashiki Island is not particularly rich in terms of hikes, but you will come across breathtaking views almost everywhere. There is one nature trail, which starts near Aharen Beach and takes you to the southern end of the island. It’s a nice hike, but in certain sections, you’ll need to follow the car road.
Alternatively, you can hike up to the mass suicide memorial near Tokashiki Port, a site devoted to one of the most tragic historical events in the history of Okinawa. It is reported that, during World War II, the residents of Tokashiki Island were asked to take their own lives by the Japanese officers during the American occupation to avoid being captured by the enemy. While the country’s official history calls into question the story’s accuracy, numerous sources attest to its authenticity. The site, located high in the hills, chills you to the bone, especially when you are the only visitor there. But well worth the hike.
In terms of the hiking options, Zamami Islands is the richer one, with several viewpoints you can hike up to. While the hikes are usually not too demanding, even the gentle climb can still be challenging under the summer heat – but remember that you can always jump into the ocean when you return from your hike. The Takatsukiyama hike is among the trails that offer a tropical island feel, complete with stunning ocean views and lush scenery.
How to get to Zamami and Tokashiki Islands
The quickest way to get to any of the Kerama Islands is to fly to Naha. You can then get to Tomari Port within 25 minutes by public bus. For both the Zamami and Tokashiki Islands, you have the slower and cheaper ferry option in addition to the fast ferry. You can check out the schedule for High-Speed Queen Zamami and Ferry Zamami on the website of Zamami Village, and you can even make online bookings. If the high-speed ferry Queen Zamami stops at Aka, the trip will take 70 minutes; otherwise, it will take 50 minutes. The regular ferry to Zamami will take you to the island in two hours. The high-speed option costs 3100 Yen, and the regular ferry costs 2100 Yen.
Again, there are two options for Tokashiki. The high-speed option, Marine Liner Tokashiki, takes 35 minutes and costs 2,580 yen, whereas the slower option, Ferry Tokashiki, takes 70 minutes and costs 1,690 yen. You can check the operation information and make an online booking on the Tokashiki Village website.
You can also travel between Zamami Island and Tokashiki. I usually take a day trip to Zamami from Tokashiki every summer. The boat leaves from the wharf near Aharen Beach, and you need to call one day ahead to make a booking. The ferry or boat Mitsushima leaves near Aharen Beach at 9:05 am and arrives at Zamami at 9:40 am after a brief stop at Aka Island. There is only one boat a day, and the return trip from Zamami departs at 3:30 pm, arriving back in Aharen at 4:05 pm. If you stay at Kerama Backpackers, the hostel shuttle will take you to the boat in the morning and pick you up in the afternoon. You can check out this English site on Zamami for schedule updates.
For additional writing about Tokashiki, you can also check out my Japan-focused monthly newsletter, where I recently wrote about a long weekend trip to Tokashiki, or the Okinawa, the Reluctant Paradise – the more recent post.
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